Ok so I took the summer off from Riley work. I didn't mean to. The sailing was just to good. The beach too warm. I am only human after all. This time I promise to work steadily through until the Riley motors again. Well maybe I'll take just a little time off if the day is especially nice.
I have started working on the underside of the Riley. I bolted struts across the car using the A and C post body to frame mounts. The struts are longer than the Riley is wide and end in hinges. The hinges attach to some planks on the floor. The device allows me to easily tilt the car over and work on the underside. The bottom of the Riley Had some surface rust and old undercoat to be cleaned off. I used a wire cup on the angle grinder and some sanders to clean the metal and then I treated it with phosphoric acid to stop any remaining rust.
After the rear was done I cleaned up the front bulkhead in a similar way. The bulkhead has lots of holes in it for wires and bolts but I am sure some are not necessary, I think I will try the Riley Forum for some help in identifying the unnecessary holes.
More work on the front bulkhead. Got a quick response from the Riley forum and was able to weld up some holes and do some hammer and dolly to straighten things out.
Applied some filler to the bulkhead.
Worked in the trunk (boot ) area small amount of welding and hammering.
I sanded and recoated the bulkhead body filler. In the trunk I sanded the primer and used seam sealer where various panels join together. I hope this will keep water from the boot. I have decided not to add a second flange in the boot channel area. There should be two flanges about 5/16 of an inch apart to retain the boot weatherstriping, I found a very similar profile weatherstrip that only needs one flange so I will use that and save myself the work.
I altered my body tilting rig so I can tilt the Riley both ways. I found lots more to sand on the other side. I wire brushed the underside yet again to try and remove more rust. Then I moved to the front and sanded the filler on the bulkhead and applied some more. Seems to be a pattern developing.
Yet more sanding of the trunk sills and bulkhead. I finished sanding the battery box, tool area and used seam sealer to make it all water proof. Ha Ha. While working on the battery compartment I realized I had no idea how the battery was held in place. Forum to the rescue again. Pictures and an explanation of how the battery clamp worked allowed me to produce my own. I ordered a supplied air respirator in preparation for paint. It was expensive but two part acrylic urethane is nothing you want in your lungs. I also built my own desiccant water trap for the airline, paint and water don't mix.
After two weeks of rain we have good weather. I prepped the car with a good wipe down of alcohol cleaner and sprayed on two coats of epoxy primer. I primed the car and the floorboards, everything came out fine. The supplied air respirator worked great not even a hint of paint order could I detect.
The big day first color coats on the Riley. Ok its only the bulkhead underside and trunk but a milestone nun the less. Yes its black. I considered lots of other colors but decided black was best for me.
Today I applied undercoating to the underside of the Riley and the floor boards. It is an epoxy compound made for pickup truck beds. I used a small roller and brush to get a nice stippled effect. I hope the undercoating will prevent stone chips and the associated rust from developing. When I lost one of the small screws that hold down the fuel tank sender I thought it was going to be easy to find a replacement. At first I thought I needed a 4BA hex. I received an email from a knowledgeable person who kindly and correctly pointed out what I really needed was a 5/32 BSW. Well 5/32 BSW don't grow on trees here in the new world. With luck I will soon track one down and once it is installed I can reunite the body with the chassis.
An extensive look on the web uncovered lots of 5/32 bsw screws in the UK. They are in bulk packages and expensive if you need only one. My sons Erector set (Meccano to you overseas) uses metric, so no help there. On to the lathe. Several tries later including some with reverse threads I produced a machine screw that works fine. Problem solved.